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Pobeda Peak - the highest summit in Tien Shan
- is located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and China and discovered
by local topographers only in 1943. On the Northern, Kyrgyz, side
it is covered with rough ice, streaming down to the foot of the
Zvyozdochka Glacier. The most popular route lies across the northern
ridge of the West Summit - Vasha Pshavela, 6918 m. There is a simple
route to Camp 1 (4500 m) from the South Inylchek Base Camp. The
last hundred meters of the route pass around crevices. Ascent to
Camp 2 (5200 m) is made across the Diky Pass by a steep icefall,
where Kan-Tengri's guides usually fix ropes. Here climbers should
move at maximum speed since avalanches, falling from the North Wall
of Pobeda Peak, sometimes reach the icefall and a storm may even
catch the camp. The route from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (5800 m) lies along
an easy snow ridge. Camp 3 is usually arranged in a snow cave. Then
follow rocks of categories 2 and 3, to be done with the fixed ropes,
and the site for setting Camp 4 at altitude 6300 - 6400 m. After
that a steep snow-covered slope, alternated with strips of ice,
where Camp 5 (6918 m) is usually set on the South (Chinese) side
of the summit ridge, followed with a gently sloping ridge about
2 kilometers long. A steep snow-covered ridge leads to the summit
- a broad geometric rock ridge, sometimes covered with snow. The
gorgeous panoramic view of the entire Tien Shan mountain-mass and
bordering wilderness will fully make up for all your efforts.
| Day 1 |
Arrive Almaty. Drive Karkara. |
| Day 2 |
Acclimatization |
| Day 3-26 |
Ascent |
| Day 27-29 |
Fly back. Drive to Almaty. Fly home. |
Please refer to program dossier
for more details |