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Khan Tengri Peak expedition, 7010 m

Kazakhstan

July-August 2012
                                                                                        dossier

 
Duration: 24 days
Period: July - August

Fixed dates for helicopter flights

accroding to the program of expedition:

 From Karkara BC                   From North Inylchek

 to North Inylchek BC              to   Karkara BC    

14.07.12                                 02.08.12

19.07.12                                 07.08.12

21.07.12                                 09.08.12         

24.07.12                                 12.08.12

28.07.12                                 16.08.12

02.08.12                                  21.08.12

 

23 years of our work on Khan Tengri Peak have shown that the safest route on this mountain lies from the North side, because:

1) the route is well observed from the Base camp,

2) the route is protected from an avalanching,

3) the route is equipped with "fixed ropes",

4) there is a direct visibility for VHF-radio communication with BC all along the route,

5) our guides are on duty  in the intermediate camps - ready to assist at any moment.

 

Climbers make their ascent by the southern route since 1931, and during this period more than 30 persons were killed by avalanches and ice-falls between 1 and 3 camps (in "the bottle" and above, especially in 1991, 1993, 2004, 2006 and 2010) - irrespective of time when they passed the dangerous sites.

 

For your convenience in 2012 we plan to prepare spacious 10-persons snow cave in Camp 2. It will allow you to save energy and to light the weight of your loads.

The approach to the beginning of a route from BC takes about 30 minutes along the flat glacier, and descent from a shoulder of Chapaev Peak to the Base camp occupies 5-6 hours with stops in intermediate camps. The well-known Kazakhstan climber Denis Urubko has ascended to the summit from North side and has descended to the Base camp during 14 hours! 

We wish you successful and safe ascensions!

The program of expedition:

Day 1
Arrive to Almaty. Meeting at the airport. Drive to Karkara Base Camp, 280 km. Accommodation in the comfortable "walk-in tents". At leisure after the long travel.
Day 2
Acclimatization. Hiking to the neighboring hills (the highest of them is 4059 m).
Day 3 - 4
Helicopter flight (30-35 min) up to the Base Camp on North Inylchek Glacier (4000 m).
Day 5 - 21
Ascent of Khan Tengri Peak.
Day 22
Helicopter return flight to Karkara Base Camp.
Day 23
Drive to Almaty. Hotel accommodation. Ethnic and souvenir shopping.
Day 24
Transfer to airport. Fly home.

1. "Full" package

   

Variant #1 (Almaty - Base Camp on the glacier - Almaty)

The ñost of expedition:  

                                            1 person-               €1650 per person      

                                        2-3 persons-              €1500 per person 

                                        4-5 persons -             €1450 per person        

                                        6 persons & more-    €1400 per person

                                        Single room                + 60 per person

                                        Extra day                     + 35 per person/ per day

                                        at North Inylchek BC

Service Includes:

* Meeting and seeing off in Almaty International Airport  *Registration in OVIR (local police office)  *All transfers   * Interpreter’s service  * Hotel in Almaty, B/B, 1 night  * All staffs insurance  *Royalty * Entrance fee for the border region  * Ecological duties  * Reconfirmation of tickets  * Return charter helicopter flight to BC (no limitation for luggage overweight)*Accommodation in “family tents”on "Full board" basis in Karkara BC - 3 days * Accommodation in “family tents” with mattresses and wooden platforms in North Inylchek BC on "Full board" basis - 8 days   *Lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty  * Mess-tent with tables and chairs in BC on glacier  * Kitchen-tent  * Cooking accessories in BC  * Cook  * Sauna or shower in Karkara BC - 1 time * Sauna or shower in North Inylchek BC - 3 times * Toilet in BC * Evacuation of debris from BC  * Medical aid in the BC (including complete set of oxygen equipment – mask, reducer, cylinder)  * Consultations by an experienced guide  * Radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office * Fixed ropes on the ascent route from North  * snow caves in Camp 2 and Camp 3 *Walky-Talky  * Electric generator (220V) in BC for mess-tents lighting and charging batteries.

 

Service Excludes:

Food & Equipment above the BC on the glacier; Rescue operation (a copy of insurance policy required); Changing of departure's date from Almaty by international airlines; Extra hotel's nights in in Almaty; Lunches and dinners in Almaty; Local guide; Extra helicopter flight; Sightseeing in Almaty; Bar bills

 Variant #2 (Karkara BC - Base Camp on the glacier - Karkara BC)

The ñost of expedition - €1250 per person   

                                        

The above cost is based on Full Board and includes the same service as in Variant#1 except hotel accommodation in Almaty, meeting and seeing-off  at airport, transfers to Karkara BC and back, lunch - boxes on the way.

 

2. “Economy” package (Karkara BC – Base Camp on the glacier – Karkara BC)

  The ñost of expedition is €1000 per person and it includes:

*Visa support and Invitation letter to Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan *Royalty * Entrance fee for the border region  * Ecological duties  * Reconfirmation of tickets  * Return charter helicopter flight to BC*  * Registration in “rescue team”* Place for the tent in North Inylchek BC  * Protection of tent in BC* Toilet in BC * Safe box in BC *Evacuation of debris from BC  * Medical consultations in the BC * Consultations by an experienced guide  * Radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office * Fixed ropes on the ascent route from North  * snow caves in Camp 2 and Camp 3 * Walky-Talky  * Electric generator (220V) in BC for charging batteries * Staffs insurance  * Weather forecast from Internet * Reservation of  hotel in Almaty * Changing the date of return helicopter flight from BC* Reconfirmation of air-tickets

* Baggage limit - 30kg; extra weight - 6 Euro/per kg.

 

                       Attention of individual climbers! Super offer from KanTengri Expeditions:

                     ASCENT TO KHAN TENGRI PEAK IN THE COMBINED INTERNATIONAL TEAM

In the coming 2012 season our Company makes a special offer to you – Expedition to Peak Khan Tengri from the North in combined international team with our professional guide! 

The group will be lead by an experienced professional guide, assistants will be provided for each of 4 climbers; the group will be equipped with 4&2-persons high-altitude tents, ropes, gas stoves &cylinders, sets of cooking accessories; high-altitude food will be purchased in advance (the list of food will be sent to each participant beforehand in order to make individual updating), snow caves will be prepared. The only thing that climbers will have to do is to bring their own personal equipment and to concentrate on ascent.

 

On the date specified all participants will gather in Karkara Base Camp, discuss the plan of ascent; our guide will give the final instructional advice and check the personal equipment. The group will make the acclimatization ascent and fly on a helicopter to “North Inylchek Glacier” Base Camp.

 

 The program of expedition:

July 22
Arrive to Almaty. Meeting at the airport. Drive to Karkara Base Camp, 2200 m. Accommodation in the comfortable "walk-in tents". At leisure after the long travel.
July 23
Acclimatization. Hiking to the neighboring hills (the highest of them is 4059 m).
July 24-25
Helicopter flight (30-35 min) up the Base Camp North Inylchek glacier (4000 m).

July 26-

August 11

Ascent of Khan-Tengri Peak.
August 12
Helicopter return flight to Karkara Base Camp, 2200 m.
August 13
Drive to Almaty. Hotel accommodation. Ethnic and souvenir shopping.
August 14
Transfer to airport. Fly home.

The cost of expedition is €1990

The period of expedition - July 22 - August 14   2012

Service Includes:

* Meeting and seeing off in Almaty International Airport  *Registration in OVIR (local police office)  *All transfers   * Interpreter’s service  * Hotel in Almaty, B/B, 1 night  * All staffs insurance  *Royalty * Entrance fee for the border region  * Ecological duties  * Reconfirmation of tickets  * Return charter helicopter flight to BC (no limitation for luggage overweight) * “Family tents” with mattresses and wooden platforms in North Inylchek BC  * Three meals a day in BC (no limitation for number of days with full board  in BC)   *Lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty  * Mess-tent with tables and chairs in BC on glacier  * Kitchen-tent  * Cooking accessories in BC  * Cook  * Sauna or shower in BC (no limitation of visits) * Toilet in BC * Evacuation of debris from BC  * Medical aid in the BC (including complete set of oxygen equipment – mask, reducer, cylinder)  * Consultations by an experienced guide  * Radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office * Fixed ropes on the ascent route from North  * snow caves in Camp 2 and Camp 3 * Walky-Talky  * Electric generator (220V) in BC for mess-tents lighting and charging batteries.

 Apart from the standard service there will be experienced guide, guide’s assistants for each of 4 climbers; group equipment will be provided: 2 and 4 persons high-altitude tents, ropes, gas cylinders and gas stoves, sets of cooking battery; high-altitude food will be purchased (the list will be sent to each participant in advance in order to correct it individually); the snow caves will be prepared.

The climbers will have to bring only individual equipment and to concentrate in training for the ascent.

 

By the appointed date all participants will gather in Karkara Base Camp, discuss the expedition plan; our guide will make instructional advices and check the individual equipment. The group will make the acclimatization ascent and fly by helicopter to North Inylchek Base Camp.

This program will allow you to achieve the maximum result, make successful ascent and reach the summit of Peak Khan Tengri.

 

General recommendations:

 

1. Regarding route of climbing

 

KhanTengri 2006 071.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Route to Camp 1

 

KhanTengri 2006 082.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Route to Camp 1

 
 

KhanTengri 2006 102.jpg

Route to Camp 2

 

KhanTengri 2006 129.jpg

Route to Camp 2

 
 

KhanTengri 2006 157.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Route to Camp 2

 

KhanTengri 2006 119.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Camp 2

 
 

KhanTengri 2006 120.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Route to the sholder of Chapayev Peak

 

KhanTengri 2006 175.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

"Rocky belt", sholder of Chapayev Peak

 
 

KhanTengri 2006 176.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Western Ridge, Camp 3 on the Pass

 

KhanTengri 2006 180.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the top of Chapayev Peak

 
 

KhanTengri 2006 181.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To the Pass and Camp 3

 

KhanTengri 2006 186.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Camp 3

 
 

KhanTengri 2006 195.jpg

 

Western Ridge

 

KhanTengri 2006 219.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Camp 4, 6400 m

 
 

KhanTengri 2006 198.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Western Ridge

 

KhanTengri 2006 207.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Western Ridge, 6500 m

 
 

KhanTengri 2006 208.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Western Ridge, kouluar

 

KhanTengri 2006 209.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Western Ridge, exit from kouluar, 6700 m

 
 

KhanTengri 2006 211.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Western Ridge, route to the summit

 

KhanTengri 2006 212.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Summit, 7010 m

 

                                                                             

The safest route up the summit leads from our Base Camp on North Inylchek Glacier. It is a little bit more difficult than the classic route (1931) from the South Inylchek Glacier, but is protected from icefalls and avalanches, which killed the climbers on the classic route in 1991, 1993, 2004, 2006 and 2010 years.

The ascent on northern route lies against the background of the vigorous Northern Wall of Khan Tengri Peak (3000 m), formed of black granite, blue ice and yellow marble, striking by its dimensions and the play of sunlight and shadows on the mountain wall. The steep ridge, offering comfortable sites for intermediate Camp 1 (4700 m) and Camp 2 (5500 m), leads to the snow-covered dome of the shoulder of Chapayev Peak. An easy wide snow ridge ends in Camp 3 (5900 m), usually arranged in a snow cave. The ascent shall be continued by the rock steps of West ridge. There are a few rocky shelves to set Camp 4 at altitude 6400 m. However, this option is not often used. Usually ascents start from Camp 3. The guides of our company only fix ropes on the most difficult parts of the route that will ease your climbing almost till the top of Khan Tengri Peak.

Please, bear in mind that some companies sell the expeditions to Khan Tengri Peak from the North, and for some reason include our "fix-ropes" on the route in their cost. In this connection, we ask all climbers to take into consideration that for not our company’s clients the cost of “fix-ropes” is 150 Euros for 1 person; the payment will be raised in «Northern Inylchek" Base Camp.

One more advantage of North Side Route is the opportunity of climbing by the simple snow routes for Karlytau Peak, 5450 m, Bayankol Peak, 5791 m, Kazakhstan Peak, 5761 m for acclimatization, also from the North Inylchek BC. 

2. Regarding climbing season

The best period for climbing is 15 July till 25 August 2012.

The duration – 24 days, depending on international airlines

 

3. Regarding high-altitude food

According to the itinerary, you will have 1-2 hours in the morning before departure for Karkara BC to by high-altitude food that you will need for the climbing due to your wish and taste.

There are different products in supermarkets of Almaty, the main of them are: walnuts, dried apricots, almonds, hazelnuts, dry fruits, dates, cashew nuts, fish tins, meat tins, sweets, sugar, salt, chocolate, bread, sausage, cheese, rice, milk, tea, coffee, cornflakes, butter, porridge, biscuits etc.

 

4. Regarding equipment

You may rent in our company the following equipment:


1.KOVEA stove                                                     10 euro     per piece
2.
KOVEA gas cylinders                                           6 åuro     per balloon
3."Guazar" high altitude double tent, UK               125 euro   per tent
4.Ropes 50 meters                                                60 euro     per rope
These items 3 & 4 will let you to save the weight of your baggage on international airlines.

 

 

5. Regarding hotel accommodation

Service list includes one night accommodation in a hotel in Almaty - "Kazzhol" (3*). It may be used upon arrival to Almaty, or on last night before departure, depending on itinerary of international airlines and your choice.

 

6. Regarding visa support and letter of invitation

For climbing to Khan Tengri Peak you will need single entry Kazakh visa.

 

To organize your trip including permit to border zone we will need following passport information of your group members:

* Full name (as in passport) * Date & Place of birth * Sex * Nationality * Passport number * Passport date of issue * Passport date of expiry (there shouldn't be less than 6 months between the dates of visit and passport date of expiry) * Occupation and company's name * Home address * Kazakhstan Embassy where expect to apply for visa

7. Regarding local guides

We are the only tourist company that does have the team of very experienced guides – mountaineers, who have been several times on Khan Tengri Peak and Pobeda Peak by different routes, also with foreign climbers.

Our climbing experience has shown and proved that climbing to Khan Tengri Peak with local guide will have 95% of success.

The cost of local guide for period of ascending – 1600euro.

Also you may order for high-altitude porter, also very qualified, the cost – 1200euro.

The order of local guide and high-altitude porter should be done two months in advance.

 

8.Regarding environmental protection

For preservation of environment the main requirement to the climbers is a releasing of all garbage (packages, cans, etc.) to the BC, giving it to the chief of BC, and KanTengri Expeditions then deliver it by helicopter to Karkara BC.

9.Booking Procedure

If you decided to take part in the expedition, please fill-in our form and send by e-mail to: info@kantengri.kz:

1.

Your full name (as in Passport)

2

Date of birth

3

Nationality

4

Passport details

(number of the document, dates of issue and expiry)

5

Mountaineering experience

(your best achievements during last 3 years)

6

Home address

7

Expedition name

8

Dates of expedition

 

Once we receive your information, we’ll send you the Invoice for a deposit payment of 150 Euro.

 

Kan Tengri LTD
10 Kasteyev street,
050010, Almaty Kazakhstan
Tel: +7 (727) 2910200, 2910880
Fax: +7 (727) 2912010
E-mail: info@kantengri.kz

Copyright © KanTengri LTD